Sand
Sharp, building, plastering and kiln-dried sand — which one your job actually needs.
Sand is where more jobs go wrong than any other bulk material, because the bags all look similar and the names vary by region. The practical difference is grain size and shape: coarse angular sand gives strength, fine soft sand gives workability. Use the wrong one and mortar cracks or screed crumbles.
Sold by
Tonne, bulk bag (~850kg) or handled bag
Typical spec
BS EN 12620 (concrete), BS EN 13139 (mortar)
Bulk density
~1.5 tonnes per m³
Coverage
~1 tonne covers 20m² at 25mm
Sand on Loadbase
Delivered prices depend on the distance from the yard to your site, so they are quoted against your postcode rather than listed here.
See sand near youSharp sand (concreting or grit sand)
Coarse, angular, washed. The angularity is the point — the grains interlock, which is what gives a mix its compressive strength.
Use it for concrete, floor screeds, and as a laying course under paving slabs and block paving. It is also the right sand for rendering base coats where strength matters more than a smooth finish.
Building sand (soft or bricklaying sand)
Finer and rounder than sharp sand, which makes mortar buttery and workable on the trowel. That workability is bought with strength, so it belongs in mortar, not concrete.
Use it for bricklaying and blockwork mortar and for pointing. A common domestic mix is 4 or 5 parts building sand to 1 part cement, with a plasticiser rather than more water.
Building sand also comes as red or yellow depending on local geology. It is a colour difference, not a performance one, but mixing sources mid-wall will show in the joints.
Plastering and rendering sand
Finely screened and washed to a tight grading with very low clay and silt content, so the finish does not craze or stain. It is worth paying for graded plastering sand rather than trying to sieve building sand — the consistency between batches is what stops a wall drying patchy.
Kiln-dried sand
Very fine sand dried to almost zero moisture so it pours freely. Its only real job is brushing into block paving joints, where it needs to run right to the bottom of a 3mm gap. Damp sand bridges and leaves the joint hollow.
Buy it in sealed bags and keep it dry until the day. Once it takes up moisture it stops behaving like kiln-dried sand and you are just brushing wet grit about.
Work out how much you need
Common questions
Can I use building sand for concrete?
No. Building sand is too fine and too rounded, so the mix lacks compressive strength and is prone to shrinkage cracking. Use sharp sand for concrete and screed.
What sand do I use under paving slabs?
Sharp sand, either as a full mortar bed mixed with cement, or as a compacted screeded laying course for permeable construction. Building sand will settle unevenly under load.
How much sand do I need for a tonne bag of mortar?
At a typical 5:1 mix, one 850kg bulk bag of building sand takes roughly six to seven 25kg bags of cement and will lay in the region of 800–1,000 bricks, depending on joint thickness and wastage.
Is grit sand the same as sharp sand?
In practice yes — grit sand, sharp sand and concreting sand are regional names for the same coarse washed sand. Check the grading on the ticket rather than relying on the name.
Other materials
Trade guidance, not a specification. Always work to the product's Declaration of Performance and any drawing or engineer's specification for the job. Reviewed 2026-07-12.